As surfers, we often dream. It’s not uncommon to find yourself thinking of empty breaks, tropical islands, sunny skies, and warm water with nowhere else to be. The thing is, we know it’s out there — we know it’s possible to achieve, but as the age-old saying goes, it’s easier said than done.
Life gets in the way, work starts to take over, the dogs need looking after, and you just ran into the car in front of you, all while caught in a daydream.
Seeing people break free of life’s shackles is without a doubt inspiring. We often get behind an adventurer who has set off to conquer the world and achieve the impossible — especially nowadays when social media allows us to stay up-to-date and literally feel as though we’re right there by their side.
So, how do they do it?
Liz Clark is an adventurer, sailor, surfer, environmentalist, and author who spent close to 14 years living aboard her 40-foot sailboat, Swell. Throughout Mexico, Central America, and the Pacific, she surfed empty waves, immersed herself in different cultures, and promoted environmental awareness.
She turned her dreams into a reality, and you can’t help but feel inspired by her journey.
“It started as a childhood dream. I grew up sailing with my family, and we did a six-month trip to Mexico when I was 10 that completely shifted my worldview. I remember thinking, ‘one day, I’m going to see the world by sea’.
“That dream lived inside me for years. But when I fell in love with surfing in my teens, a new element was added. I wanted to sail to surf remote waves. I realised I could explore surfing while living simply and intimately with nature — a blend of the things I loved.”
Liz was living a fairly conventional life in California as she prepared to set sail — surfing competitively and taking environmental studies in college. She worked as a bartender in the evenings, saving every cent she could, which would then be poured into the overhaul of her sailboat.
“At that point, I was completely focused on my dream of sailing and surfing the world. Everything I did was a means to this end. I was dreaming of something radically different from the conventional path most of my peers were taking. I yearned for a freer lifestyle, a deeper connection with the natural world, and a life that aligned with my environmental values.”
Liz was 25 years old when she set sail out of Santa Barbara Harbour. She’s a self-proclaimed ‘frothing surfer’ who imagined nothing more than anchoring alongside untouched, uncrowded surf breaks. She could already see herself surfing her brains out and earning extra pennies from writing jobs — but it quickly became so much more than just that.
“Being immersed in other cultures quickly taught me life lessons and new perspectives. Mama Ocean kept me sharp and fit while teaching me to embrace my wildness. Life at sea, captaining Swell, constantly challenged me, forcing me to grow and step into my power.
“At the outset, I never would have imagined wanting to sail solo, but I ended up feeling called to try and loving it for many years. The voyage allowed me to explore my inner horizons too — to feel the interconnectedness of all life and develop my passion to protect it.
“What started as a surf trip evolved into a personal and spiritual journey I never expected.”
Liz navigated over 20,000 nautical miles, exploring remote communities and uninhabited islands, all while chasing swells and soaking up the diversity of life, language, and wisdom that each coastal community had to offer.
But as you can expect, 14 years of floating on a small piece of fibreglass is bound to come with its fair share of challenges and scary moments.
“Of course, there was more hesitation, fear, stress, and doubt than not… especially in the beginning. I was young and lacked confidence, setting off alone on a boat I had barely learned to handle. Nothing has ever terrified me like the times I got caught in lightning storms at sea — you’re completely exposed and at the mercy of nature’s raw, unpredictable power.
“One of my most harrowing experiences was during a 15-day solo passage where I encountered days of violent lightning storms and fierce winds that were determined to blow me off course.
Equipment started breaking. I was low on food, barely sleeping, utterly exhausted, and losing morale. I nearly lost the mast. The headstay was literally hanging by six little wires by the time I arrived.
“It was the farthest I’d ever been pushed to my limits, physically and mentally. But I learned that when you think you’ve got nothing left, the will to survive finds more. Knowing that strength lives in me has carried me through difficult times ever since.
“But regret? Never. Every challenge taught me something important — something I wouldn’t trade. I got more comfortable with fear and tried to see it as a compass always pointing towards growth and new skills. Despite so much time spent in survival mode those first few years, I knew I was doing exactly what I was meant to do.”
Picture those empty surf breaks, tropical islands, sunny skies, and warm water. Now imagine travelling to those locations all by yourself, by your own means, and having nowhere else to be. Liz said it was a euphoric feeling of freedom, appreciation, and connection.
“Arriving at a break after days or weeks at sea, dropping anchor, and paddling out to ride waves… every single time it felt like I’d gotten away with something outrageous! Knowing I had arrived at a break by wind, by my own hands, made it all feel so sacred, surreal, and sobering.
“Surfing itself was a refuge and reward after all the dedication it took to keep Swell maintained and move her across the sea successfully.”
Surfing uncrowded and perfect waves was not the only goal Liz had in mind while living life on the ocean. She realised that living such an extraordinary existence with its countless challenges along the way gave her a broad audience that might not usually be interested in environmental issues.
“I shared the incredible beauty of the people and places I found, which always motivated me to double down on learning how to do better for the planet. Living that close to the ocean made me realise how every choice we make has an impact, so I shared my personal journey to live more consciously, hoping others might follow.
“Swell ran on solar and wind. I reduced my plastic use after witnessing plastic-covered beaches, and I shared my passion for eating local and plant-based foods to fight climate change. I talked about my discovery of safe mineral sunscreen products, and I even learned how to make non-toxic cleaning and hygiene products.”
Liz’s story is one of courage, discovery, and a love for nature — something that she encapsulates vividly in her 300-page memoir, Swell: A Sailing Surfer’s Voyage of Awakening, which was written during the last few years onboard.
“Writing a book in the same tiny space where I was constantly monitoring the weather, hauling water, cooking, and repairing my floating home was honestly a monumental undertaking.”
After 14 years aboard Swell, Liz began to feel a slight tug towards a more conventional lifestyle on land. Despite seeming dreamy, life at sea takes its toll. Liz said it’s a rollercoaster, to say the least.
“There came a point when I felt I needed a break from the emotional toll of sea life — the constant responsibility and adrenaline.
“When I met my now-husband, Tahui, that pull towards community and a more rooted life grew. I started to imagine what it could look like to put my efforts for the planet and animals into something more shared and tangible.”
Now settled in French Polynesia with her husband, Liz puts her energy into nonprofit work, including marine protection, spay/neuter programs, and environmental education for children.
She continues to write, speak, and collaborate on projects that align with planetary health, animal welfare, and empowering women — things that are close to her heart. Although, she made it very clear that she will forever have a love for sailing, and the thought of setting out to sea in the not-too-distant future with her husband is always present.
After talking with Liz — who has lived so many incredible, intense, and powerful experiences adrift on the ocean — we were curious what things she misses the most about life at sea.
“The night sky. The simplicity. The intimacy with nature. Watching squalls approach and reading the sea surface. The wildlife encounters and timing my life with tides and moon phases.
“I miss that quiet space at sea where you can hear your thoughts more clearly — where you feel disconnected from the noise and connected to the greatness.”
