Do Your Thing

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INTERVIEW WITH JAKE KILLEN

There’s a few people who cross into our path that make us go, “Yes, that’s Smorgasboarder. That’s the grassroots surfing community and everything we hope to celebrate in this magazine of ours.”

Words: Amber O’Dell

Jake Killen

Jake Killen is one of those people, and instantly drew our attention when some rather insane surfing shots from Norway surfaced on our social media.

After a little digging, we stumbled across more of his killer photography, which captures everything from board shaping and global surf adventures to miscellaneous building projects.

The more we investigated, the more we realised that Jake was a pretty interesting dude. So, when we came across a photograph of his colourful collection of surfboards, each propped up next to a shed that he converted into a shaping bay with his dad, we couldn’t help but reach out to him with the need to share his story.

When we were somehow lucky enough to catch up with Jake in between his many surfing trips, he told us that he grew up in Sydney’s Northern Beaches with his cousins.

“We lived only a street back from Dee Why Point, which greatly enabled my froth for the ocean. We moved around a lot in my early teens, away from the waves, where I almost forgot about surfing altogether until my dad moved us to the Sunshine Coast when I was 11.

“I really owe my insatiable love of surfing to my dad, Dave. He’s surfed his whole life and still does to this day. Even more so now that I’ve started working for him as a carpenter. Daily surfs, or site meetings, are a ritual.”

Of course, there are those who surf, and those who become a little too captivated by the shape of the thing they are surfing on.

From Jake’s fascination with board design came InSync Surfboards – a homegrown shaping business where he and his dad create sleek and colourful boards while restoring old gems and repairing the odd ding.

Jake said this humble operation began with the transformation of an old shed and took off from there.

“I always wanted to make my own surfboards. With the number of different ones I was riding, I got inspired to shape boards from about 4’8” to 11’.

“It’s just a personal bay really. My dad runs the show in there now – he’s obsessed! He’s also become a master glasser, which has helped a lot. We’ve got two mid twinnies ready to glass as we speak.”

After giving shaping a whirl, not only did Jake’s respect for surfboard design grow, but also his enthusiasm for boards of all kinds.

In true Smorgasboarder fashion, Jake told us that he loves wiping out and stacking it on everything – from surfboards to skateboards to snowboards.

“I’m average at best on the last two, but I still do them, especially when I am skating around home. It’s also a must when I’m up in the snow, because I don’t really have the chance to do that a lot. The thing is, I feel like I slowly start to become pretty good at snowboarding, and then I’m packing my bags already!

“My go-to surfboards and ideal shapes would have to be any twin fin from a fun 5’4” fish to a big 7’4”. I have a love-hate relationship with logs, but I’m really loving them again, besides the fact that they’re a pain to travel with. The right board for the right wave is always the way to go.”

One glance at Jake’s social media will tell you that he’s quite the globetrotter, sharing experiences from Canada to London, Austria, Spain, and Japan.

However, it was his experiences in the beautifully isolated breaks of Norway, each bordered by mountains, pebbled beaches, and long stretches of green pastures, that had us particularly enthralled.

The deep fjords and windswept coastlines of Scandinavia certainly sound like heavenly places to surf, at least for those that vibe with cold water, fires on the beach, thick wetsuits, harsh offshores, and the serene feeling of being alone with the ocean.

Jake said he’s always had a weird obsession with going to Norway, and cracked up when he told us that it’s probably because he watched The Polar Express when he was young.

“As soon as my girlfriend Bayley and I stepped off the plane, it was like we were in James Cameron’s Avatar. The surf scene over there is just so different, but still super respectful and honest. I think they like to keep their little paradise close to them. A beer at the beach is just not a thing – I paid for that one!

“I love Ireland too. My dad is Irish, so there’s a family connection to the country for me, but I also like the people, the landscape, the Guinness, and the surf vibe, which is really sick. I’ve made some great friends over there now, and I can’t wait to go back.

“For some downtime during our months away, Bayley and I loved Denmark. That place has got it all figured out. I heard you can also get waves there if you know where to look. If anyone has the opportunity, I would highly recommend going over to France too. That whole strip all the way across to Spain is just wild.”

Understandably, surfing was always the priority for Jake after moving to the Sunshine Coast. That is, until he turned 17, caught the travel bug, and became increasingly frustrated when his underwhelming iPhone photos and desperate attempts at describing the picturesque backdrops of the waves he caught just didn’t cut it.

As a result, Jake started shooting film on thrifted cameras, which then led to him investing in more serious, heavy-duty stuff.

“I still don’t consider myself as much of a photographer, but I do love it. I think I get too surf-oriented to commit to photography, but when the waves are flat or I’m surfed out, it does become a fun way of capturing perfect moments.

“I like to shoot all different things. Special moments really, and when people are least expecting it. I think it’s cool to capture people. I still get all artsy and stuff, but there’s always plenty of emotions in a photo, and they’re rad to look back on.”

Of course, Jake is being a little humble here. His photos really are extraordinary, and capture everything from sick waves to the authentic moments that come with living as a nomadic surfer (such as carefully slotting a surfboard through a gap in a barbed wire fence).

But his talent doesn’t stop there, because over the last few years, in addition to trying to put himself in as many exotic swells and captivating landscapes as possible, Jake has also managed to build himself a tiny house.

This is no shoddy surf shack, mind you, but a gorgeous three-storey loft that took six months to build, with most of that time being spent learning everything from basic kitchen installs to sheeting, pantry installation, flooring, and more.

It really does look like the perfect little place to relax after a long journey, which is fitting, because no matter how insane the waves are in places like Norway and Portugal, the swell of the Sunshine Coast always tends to lead Jake back home.

“I love home. We have a little rock shelf that seems to work at almost any tide and pick up so much swell, even on the small days. I like it down in Tassie too. A few breaks down there get me excited every single time.

It’s pretty great that our readers are constantly introducing us to the new places they visit, the waves they ride, and the side projects they get carried away with, and that’s not just because we are blessed with a ridiculously long list of must-try boards, surf spots, and hobbies.

Simply put, we are stoked to be able to share your stories – the captivating things that make the grassroots surfing community the insanely diverse, inspiring, and strange place that it is. So, keep sending in your surf shots and raving about what you enjoy, whether that be tinkering, surfing, travelling, shaping, or all of the above.

“I’ve always worked to travel, so I am blessed with a lovely girlfriend who allows me to do that, helps me with my injuries, and comes along without complaints… well, except for the single bed in Norway.

“I think I need to give a big shout out to The Critical Slide Society for slinging us all sorts of clothes and beach accessories for both the colder and warmer days. They literally saved our freezing butts multiple times.

“Also Shapers Australia for their countless twin fin designs and backing us on our adventures, and Adelio wetsuits for keeping me warm all year round. Basically, I’m just very grateful to be supported by so many brands and close friends.”